Inspections can reveal unsafe and deteriorating conditions due to corrosive gases venting through the chimney. Inspections can also uncover hidden blockages or damages to the inside flue liner, which can cause carbon monoxide to leak into living space or a passage way for fire to spread through your home.
ALL flues should be inspected and cleaned (oil, gas appliances, conversion, pellet stoves, wood stoves, masonry fireplaces, gas fireplaces, fireplace inserts, factory build fireplaces and stoves.)
First, we need to understand that there is Natural gas and Liquid propane.
Natural gas is provided into the home by piping from the street underground this is usually a city system with larger populations or newer developments. Natural gas is recorded by a meter either outside of the home or located in the basement (see picture below for natural gas meter). If you already have natural gas adding a fireplace insert or new fireplace a plumber can branch off existing line to your new desired location.
Liquid Propane is kept and stored in a tank on your property(or underground tanks common with newer construction) that is safe for operation and easy access for filling for the delivery truck. The gas is then piped by a licensed plumber (which we can recommend a local plumber or if you already have one) from the tank into the home usually running in the basement and then up threw the floor into your new gas fireplace. This can be used even if you have oil and or electric heat as it is its own source (see picture below for liquid propane tank)
We can put you in contact with a local propane company they will come out to you and do a site assessment of your home determine the best and safest location and most companies provide a plumber for running the gas line all in one. We have some great companies that we have done business with already!
For a new gas fireplace, you will need about 18 inches (to account for framing and finish material i.e. stone or wood finish) off the wall and minimum 7-8 foot ceilings to make everything work in that desired area.
We can install a variety of gas venting systems the most common is a simple stainless steel termination cap that sits on the outside of the home and looks like the picture below.
We can install a wide variety of gas fireplace or free-standing gas stoves. We have large linear gas fireplaces as large as 72” long to as small as 36” look at the website and give us a call!
We currently purchase and install units from Napolean. You can visit their website to see all the selections and the let us know which one you’re thinking about. Based upon your space and needs we’ll work with you to find the best fit.
This is a great question!!
Gas fireplace inserts are meant to go into an existing brick fireplace. This can be very confusing when looking at gas fireplace/insert on a website. How do you know the difference? It will say insert in the description or at least it should… be careful not to fall in love with a fireplace only to find out it will not work with what you have. (Take a look below for what a gas fireplace insert will fit into and what it can look like finished by On Duty)
Gas fireplaces are meant to go into a framed wood enclosure i.e., new construction or a renovation project in your existing home. These units are super versatile and can be located anywhere in the home that has an exterior wall and proper area to install usually 18” off the wall and ceiling height 7 feet or more and have a length of anywhere from 4 ft to 8 feet.
With the new design of fireplace heat distribution, you can now put almost any type of decor you would like it to be shiplap, stone veneer, wood trim right up to the fireplace itself giving a seamless look! Take a look at our recent install below!
Gas logs are slid into the fireplace with a pan burner and have no surround or cabinet that they sit in, a gas fireplace insert has a log set but has its own enclosed cabinet in which it heats and distributes by a blower.
Gas logs can have some benefits and a few negative ones, but it depends on what you are really looking for. Gas log sets are a system that is built to mimic a fireplace real log fire but instead of wood flame it is fed by gas. These log sets are attached to a pan burner under the log set and the flames come up through the logs to mimic a real fire, they truly have done that! These units put out a tremendous amount of heat but be cautioned by code we are required to leave the damper disabled as to not allow it to ever be shut completely. They can be controlled with a remote for flame height and temperature in the room just like a thermostat. The one downside with the damper partially left open can leak the conditioned heat in your home up the flue even while the unit is not on. A solution to this, to at least minimize the air flow, is to install insulated glass doors but these come at a cost in the area starting at $1500+. The reason for the partially open damper is due to the unit exhaust if the damper is closed by accident the unit will exhaust into the home if tuned on allowing carbon monoxide to leak into your living space, so for that reason alone is why these units are required to be fail safe by locking the damper in a partially open position.
Once your stove is installed we’re always available to help make sure your stove is working properly. We highly recommend yearly cleaning and maintenance of your stove and chimney to maintain the efficiency and safety of your stove. If you have any questions regarding your recently installed stove, please do not hesitate to contact us.
Various factors effect an estimate such as height of chimney, type of stove to be installed, etc. To get an accurate quote for your specific project you must contact us. Below are just general estimates and can be shorter or longer depending on your project.
Inspections – Approximately 45 minutes
Cleaning – Approximately 1 – 1 1/2 hours
Repairs – Anywhere from few hours to few days
Stove Install – 4-8 hrs
Liner Install – 4-8 hrs
NFPA 211 states that you should have your chimney inspected and cleaned annually.
As a rule of thumb, wood should be seasoned, (meaning 6-12 months split and stacked) split, and stacked, not lying on the ground as dead timber or logs. Wood should be exposed to the sun and wind and only covered on top to keep rain from soaking the wood. Once prepared for winter storage, stack wood in a covered wood shed (as shown) or an area protected from snow/ice. Having this area as close to your house is possible will avoid long hauls in large amounts of snow.
Your wood should be seasoned for 6 to 12 months, the wood should have gray dry appearance and when split look whitish color and when knocked together should make a hollow sound (wet wood will make dense bang due to water content) well seasoned wood will have cracks at the ends. When placing logs into firebox there should be 3 inches of space from firebox wall to allow for proper airflow in and around the wood for complete burn cycle. Logs can be placed in two different directions in your firebox (if your firebox can accommodate both ways) the first is east west (left to right) position the load is best used for the milder temps when your just trying to get the chill out of the room, the second position is a north south load (front to back) used in cold temps this will produce more heat and longer burn time. Place medium sized logs on the bottom of the firebox with space in between. Then place dry kindling going across the medium logs. Roll up and tie newspaper pages into knots and place on top. The knots help keep the paper from rolling off the top of the pile and also create more intense flame once the fire reaches the knot. Heat radiates down as much as up so this will light the logs and keep you from having to re-load the stove right away in initial start-up.
Do not overload the firebox this can create over fire and can have the potential to push flames into smoker chamber or connecter pipe were creosote can form and ignite creating a dangerous situation. Do not slam down air control this can lead to puffing (mini explosion in firebox) leave the air control wide open until sufficient flame is seen then slowly turn air control down in 10 or 15 min intervals. Never shut down air control completely on the fire this will cause excessive smoldering and create more creosote buildup. Let the wood load burn down to the coals before placing second load in, this allows for complete combustion maximizing burn time and creating less creosote buildup. Rake all hot coals to the front of the stove and place next load behind them, allowing one piece of wood of a smaller size in direct contact with hot coals this will produce a longer burn time.
The hard woods will last longer (i.e. Oak, Maple, ADD MORE).
If you have a variety of seasoned and unseasoned wood it is best to mix loads to obtain the best heating potential.
Wet wood will hiss and pop as well as foam at the ends of the logs. Large amount of heat energy will be lost due to wet wood.
Large amount of heat energy will be lost due to wet wood and causes a large amount of creosote to build due to the unburned gases given off by the wood. Therefore we do NOT recommend the use of wet wood.
One of the most corrosive conditions can be found in conversions from oil to gas in masonry flue liners. Because the newer high-efficiency gas-burning appliances vent higher levels of water vapor, they seriously escalate a deterioration problem. It is extremely important when making the switch from oil to gas to have your chimney inspected so that your venting system is operating and installed correctly.